
By Caleb Fotheringham, RNZ Pacific journalist
The Cook Islands’ outer islands, or Pa Enua, are emptying as people make the pilgrimage to Rarotonga for constitution celebrations.
This year is particularly significant, August 4 marks 60 years of the Cook Islands being in free association with New Zealand.
Cook Islands Secretary of Culture Emile Kairua said this year’s Te Maeva Nui, which is the name for the annual celebrations, is going to be huge.
“For the first time in a long time, we are able to bring all our people together for a long-awaited reunion, from discussions with the teams that have already arrived, there’s only handful of people that’s been left on each of our outer islands,” Kairua said.
“Basically, the outer islands have been emptied out.”
According to the Ministry of Finance and Economic Management, more than 900 people are making the trip to Rarotonga from the Pa Enua which are spread across an area similar to the size of Mexico.
Cook Islands News reports that the government has allocated $4.1 mllion for event transport.
Biggest calendar event
Kairua said Te Maeva Nui is the biggest event on the Cook Islands’ calendar.
“Te Maeva Nui has become an iconic event for the Cook Islands, for the nation, as well as the diaspora.”
A comparable event was in 2015 when 50 years was marked.
Kairua said for many people it will be the first time visiting Rarotonga since the start of the covid-19 pandemic.
“Sixty years looks like it’s going to be a lot bigger than 50 for a number of reasons, because we’ve had that big gap since covid hit. If we liken it to covid it’s like the borders being lifted, and everyone now has that freedom to come to Raro.”
Two ships, one from Tonga and the other from Tuvalu, are tasked with transporting people from the Northern Group islands to Rarotonga.
While, Air Rarotonga has the job of moving people from the Southern Group.
Tourist season peak
The airline’s general manager Sarah Moreland said Te Maeva Nui comes during the peak of the tourism season, making July a very busy month.
“We’ve got about 73 people from Mauke, 76 passengers from Mangaia, 88 from Aitutaki, 77 from Atiu and even 50 coming from the small island of Mitiaro, Nukuroa,” Moreland said.
She said transporting people for Te Maeva Nui is a highlight for staff.
“They love it, I think it’s so cool that we get to bring the Pa Enua from the islands, they just come to Rarotonga, they bring a whole different vibe. They’re so energetic, they’re ready for the competition, it just adds to the buzz of the whole Te Maeva Nui, it’s actually awesome.”
The executive officer of Atiu Taoro Brown said two months of preparation had gone into the performances which represents the growth of the nation over the past 60 years.
“It’s an exciting time, we come together, we’re meeting all our cousins and all our families from all the other islands, our sister islands, it’s a special moment.”
Brown said this year the island had given performance slots to people from Atiu living in Rarotonga, Australia and New Zealand.
“We wanted everybody from around the region to participate in celebrations.”
Friendly competition
Food is another big part of the event, an area Brown said there’s a bit of friendly competition in between islands.
Pigs, taro, and “organic chicken” had all been sent to Rarotonga from Atiu.
“Everyone likes to think they’ve got this the best dish but the food I feel, it’s all the same, you know, the island foods, it’s about the time that you put in.”
For Kairua and his team at the Ministry of Culture, he said they needed to mindful to not allow the event to pass in a blur.
“Otherwise we end up organising the whole thing and not enjoying it.
“This is not our first big rodeo, or mine. I was responsible for taking away probably the biggest contingency to Hawai’i for the FestPAC and because we got so busy with organising it and worrying about the minor details, many of us at the management desk forgot to enjoy it, but this time, we are aware.”
Turbulent relationship
In the backdrop of celebrations, the Cook Islands and New Zealand’s relationship is in turbulent period.
Last month, New Zealand paused $18.2 million in development assistance funding to the nation, citing a lack of consultation over several controversial deals with China.
Unlike for the 50th celebrations, New Zealand’s prime minister and foreign minister will not attend the celebrations, with the Governor-General representing New Zealand.
A statement from the Cook Islands Office of the Prime Minister last week said officials from the country have reconfirmed their commitment to restore mutual trust with New Zealand in a meeting on 10 July.
This article is republished under a community partnership agreement with RNZ.